Nak Ternak Cacing ke Nak Buat Rumah ?

Hampir 90% yang datang ke tempat penternakan risaukan tentang bagaimana untuk menyediakan Rumah Cacing...Nak buat cara rak atau kolah, kos pembinaan, kos kelengkapan, kos itu dan kos ini...dan akhir sekali baru dia fikir tentang kos cacing. Sedangkan faktor utama adalah cacing....Itu sebabnya saya tanya " Nak Ternak Cacing ke Nak Buat Rumah ? "

Masyarakat kita sudah terlalu dimanjakan, tiada semangat `survivor`, kalau nak buat kena cantik-cantik...hasilnya fikir kemudian. Sebenarnya matlamat utama menternak cacing adalah untuk menghasilkan biomas (cacing) dan kompos, dalam apa bekaspun cacing boleh hidup asalkan menepati kriteria-kriteria yang telah ditetapkan.....Apa kriterianya ?...kalau nak tahu, rajin-rajinlah mencari ilmu kerana ilmu tidak datang menggolek kepada anda...Jangan Manja Sangat kerana kalau makan asyik bersuap , kita tak ubah seperti `Ayam Bodoh` atau `Lembu Feedlot`.



Satu lagi soalan cepumas - `Bila saya dah ternak, saya nak jual kat mana ? Cuba anda tanya orang cina soalan tu, saya pasti mereka akan ketawakan anda, macam ni lah, saya syorkan anda beli buku `BERANI GAGAL` dan fahami apa yang tersirat di dalam buku tersebut.

http://worm1blog.blogspot.com/2008/02/nak-ternak-cacing-ke-nak-buat-rumah.html



Utk makluman Cacing Harimau (Tiger Worm / Eisenia Foetida) adalah salah-satu species cacing yg tergolong didlm kumpulan cacing kompos / pengomposan. Selain itu beberapa spesies yg sesuai digunapakai utk industri Vermikultur / Vermikompos dlm keadaan negara Malaysia termasuk:

1. Cacing Merah (Red Worm / Lumbricus Rubellus).
2. African Nightcrawlers / Eudrillus Eugeniae.
4. Pheretima Elongata.
5. Cacing Biru (Blue Worm / Perionyx Excavatus).

Setiap satu spesies di atas ada kebaikan / kelemahan yg perlu diambilkira bergantung atas objektif sebenar masing2.

Contoh Bekas untuk menternak cacing kompos adalah 15 kakiX 60 kaki untuk skala besar.
Makanan bagi cacing ternakan adalah semua jenis sisa organik i.e. sisa kandang, sisa pertanian, sisa dapur, sisa industri dll asalkan ianya organik boleh diguna-pakai & dimanfaatkan sebagai bahan makanan dlm sistem Vermicomposting. TETAPI, setiap satu perlu diSTABILKAN.
Sisa makanan TIDAK SEMESTINYA membiakkan ulat. Kalau lalat mula bertelor & membiak bermakna sistem sdr:

1. Terlalu basah.
2. Berbau busuk.
3. Masam / Acidic pH rendah dll.

Kalau media terlalu basah ia akan menjadi “anaerobic” (tidak beroksigen) dan menggalakan bakteria penghurai nitrogen (anaerobic microbes) dan mengakibat fermentasi kpd sisa buangan tsb. Bau busuk itu adalah ammonia yg dikeluarkan hasil penghuraian nitrites.
Cadangan cara mengatasinya:
1. Kawal kelembapan media - kalau terlalu basah, taburkan & gaul “bulking agent” spt kertas carik (shredded paper), habuk sabut kelapa (cocopeat) dsb utk menyerap kelembapan.
2. Sistem perlu ditutup dengan jaring halus utk mengelakkan lalat & perosak2 lain.
3. Makanan diletakkan cuma di permukaan shj utk mengelakkan fermentasi. Jangan dibenamkan dlm media.
4. Jgn beri makan terlalu berlebihan (overload). Jumlah makanan seharusnya seimbang dgn jumlah cacing.

Walaubagaimanapun, cara utk skala kecil2an dan skala besar agak berbeza bergantung kpd keadaan setempat.
Dari dlm rumah (sisa dapur):
1. Lebihan sayur dedaun & kulit buah2an (di bilas dulu - elakkan sisa bahan kimia. elakkan kulit limau)
2. Lebihan Nasi (di bilas dulu - jgn bercampur minyak / kari / sambal dll)
3. Hampas teh & kopi. Ni favourite dia (di bilas gulanya dulu - elakkan semut)
4. Kulit telur yg di hancur halus.
5. Lebihan roti walaupun dah berkulat, pizza dll (hati2 jgn terlalu banyak kerana ia akan “menapai” dan “panas”)
6. Tisu terpakai yg telah guna lap mulut.
7. Kertas bungkusan (jgn berminyak)

Dari luar rumah (sisa laman):
1. Dedaun & rumput kering (kalu boleh dicarik dulu. Lebih kecil lebih baik)
2. Dedaun & rumput hijau (hati2 jgn terlalu banyak kerana ia akan “menapai” dan “panas”)
3. Buah2an yg luruh & rosak.

Dari pejabat:
1. Kertas yg dicarik (elakkan yg berwarna & dicetak dgn “inkjet”)
2. Tisu terpakai yg telah guna lap mulut.

Dari persekitaran berdekatan kita (sambil2 kita berulang-alik):
1. Hampas tebu, pisang dll dari warung2 (di bilas gulanya dulu - elakkan semut & getah).
2. Sisa sayur2an, buah2an dll dari pasar, kedai runcit dll.
3. Kalu di utara mungkin mudah mendapatkan Jerami padi dll.

Kalu boleh bahan2 ini dikumpul setempat dan dikomposkan sedikit agar ia “menapai” dulu dan tidak panas bila diberi makan ke cacing.
HARAP MAKLUM: Yg sy terangkan di sini cuma sesuai digunapakai utk SKALA KECIL ya. Jika SKALA MENENGAH ATAU BESAR caranya agak berlainan.

http://harizamrry.wordpress.com/2008/02/06/ternakan-cacing-tanah/



"Bagi yang nak menjalankan penternakan nie memang ler bagus jika sabar dan dapat volume yang besar (jumlah cacing akan banyak dalam tempoh yang panjang - dlm setahun)

Cuma tang harga tue, terlampau mahal sangat. Kursus tersebut terlampau mahal berbanding ilmu yg diperolehi. Bagi gua, kursus tue bernilai cuma RM50.00 ajer... (ingat bukan nilai kos tempat penganjuran)... tapi disebabkan sifat dan niat depa nak kaut untung pada kursus, tue yang buat kat hotel dan charge peserta RM450.00...

Sedangkan kandungan / maklumat yang diberi..(jika nak tolong sesama kaum) boleh ajer buat kat dewan orang ramai.. atau mana-mana cawangan pejabat peladang (yang ada dewan).

Setakat nak dengar nak buat bekas cacing, makanan cacing dan jenis cacing = RM 450.00 = cekik darah....

Satu lagi... kita tertipu dengan kosmetik (maksud gua harga cacing yang konon nya mahal RM 400 - RM 600) hakikat nyer.. harga yang depa ambil cuma RM 100 ++ ajer... tapi di WAR - WAR kan mahal sampai cecah RM600.00...

Tah-tah depa ambik dari peserta ngan harga RM 100++ pas tue, tolak pada peserta baru yang perlukan iduk dengan harga RM450.00... aduhai.. sape untung???/ lu pikir la sendiri......"

"satu perkara yg aku tak berkenan ngan bab cacing ni ialah harga dia... harga yg tak masuk akal... nak kursus RM450... nak beli cacing pun RM450... takde langsung tanda² keikhlasan untuk membantu sesama umat... semuanya cekek darah... inilah org kita... hari tu dlm MHI TV3, ada sorang penternak tu dgn bangganya berkata harga pasaran cacing kat malaysia ni RM450 sekg dan harga pasaran antarabangsa mencecah sehingga RM800 sekg... pandai le org tua tu nak saiko org... seolah² harga RM450 tu kira murah ler... poooraahh! berikan ler bukti kat mana pasaran antarabangsa tu yg harga dia sampai RM800 sekg tu ? apa yg aku tau harga cacing kat oversea adalah sekitar usd15 - usd30 (lebih kurang RM100) jer sekg... x caya gi ler tgk kat ebay ke atau kat mana² website penternak cacing oversea...
kpd penternak² baru tu... jgn hrp sgt ler nak kaya dgn jual cacing tu... sbb rasanya skit masa lagi pastinya harga cacing ni merudum jatuh bilamana ada insan² penternak yg berhati mulia (dgn niat membantu) mula menjual dgn harga yg jauh lebih murah... mudah²an... Amiiin!!!"

Di ambil dari sebuah forum mengenai cacing:
http://www.carigold.com/portal/forums/showthread.php?t=34336&page=4

Kita ternak cacing untuk apa sebenarnya ?...1. Untuk kompos 2. Untuk cacing (daging ), Kenapa kompos menjadi tujuan utama?....Sebenarnya kita telah di`silapmata`kan dengan sesuatu yang masih jauh (walaupun semakin dekat)...memang harga cacing agak lumayan, antara RM400-RM500 per kg jika dibandingkan dengan kompos yang cuma antara RM0.80 - RM4.50 per kg.

Tetapi kita harus ingat bahawa, penggunaan daging cacing untuk pengeluaran produk masih dalam peringkat R&D dan bekalan daging cacing masih jauh daripada mencukupi. Ada forumer yang mempertikaikan tentang info yang mengatakan cacing akan digunakan untuk pengeluaran produk dan seolah-olah menuduh otai-otai penternak cacing cuma menjaja cerita tersebut agar orang ramai berminat untuk menternak,..betul ke? Kalau betul..mana produknya?Apa syarikatnya ?

Saya sebenarnya faham akan kekhuatiran yang menyelubungi bakal-bakal penternak, ye lah...setelah berpenat-lelah menternak dan hasil ternakan dan memenuhi bangsal, kemana pulak nak dijual?..nak dimakan....rasanya belum lagi tergamak....cuma apa yang boleh saya katakan adalah `BANYAK-BANYAK LAH BERSABAR`.

Sebenarnya stok cacing di negara kita masih belum mencukupi dan masih jauh lagi untuk berlaku masalah lambakan stok. Ada syarikat yang telah membuat R&D dan akan mula menghasilkan produk, tapi adakah bekalan `raw material`(cacing) mencukupi? Takkan mereka nak keluarkan produk lepas tu terpaksa diberhentikan kerana tidak cukup bekalan `raw material`, disinilah perlunya penternak cacing yang ramai agar bekalan stok sentiasa mencukupi.Kita mestilah merobohkan tembok yang memagari minda kita, agar kita boleh menjadi lebih kreatif untuk menghasilkan produk-produk yang berasaskan cacing.

http://worm1blog.blogspot.com/2008/03/pasaran-cacing-mana-arahnya.html

How to build a worm farm

Feeding fruit and vegetable scraps to earthworms is a cheap and simple way of recycling food and garden waste. Worm castings make a great fertiliser for gardens. Worm farms are ideal for people living in flats or houses with small backyards and for dealing with lunch scraps at the office.

Worm farms use special earthworms called compost worms that thrive in the warm, rich, moist environment of the worm farm. The most common compost worms are Tiger Worms, Red Wrigglers and Indian Blues and they can eat about half of their body weight in one day. The population in a well maintained worm farm doubles every two to three months.

What You Will Need to Build a Simple Worm Farm

• A container for the worm farm. There are many types of suitable containers for keeping worms, from simple polystyrene or wooden boxes from the fruit shop to stackable worm farms and plastic worm factories, which can be bought. The container must have drainage holes. A polystyrene foam fruit box about 28 cm high with drainage holes box is ideal for a first worm farm.
• At least 2,000 compost worms. These worms will breed and multiply to about 8,000 worms in 6 months. There are many companies that sell compost worms.
• Three sheets of newspaper.
• A bucketful of 'bedding' material, which is a blend of partly decomposed compost, straw, grass clippings or shredded paper or leaf mould.
• A suitably sized loose cover, such as hessian. If you do not have hessian, you could use a sheet of cardboard or even a whole newspaper.
• Fruit and vegetable scraps from your kitchen.
• Two bricks to support the box.

To buy worms or worm farms, consult the Yellow Pages under 'Worm Farms'. Some local councils also sell worm farms. Contact your local council's waste and recycling services section for more information.

Method

1. Choose a shady spot outdoors for your worm farm, preferably on a spot with good drainage. Tree roots or grass runners may invade open based worm farms seeking out water and nutrients. To avoid this problem, place the worm farm on a plastic sheet.
2. Line your container with a few sheets of dampened newspaper.
3. Half fill the container with bedding mix that is moist but not soggy. Bedding mix can consist of compost, grass clippings and shredded paper. It is important to provide a bedding mix that is not as fresh as the main food source. The best material for this is well-rotted compost, which is a great way to use compost produced from garden waste. Prop the container on bricks to make sure the drainage holes are clear.
4. Add the compost worms.
5. Cover the container with a layer of hessian and water till moist but not wet.
6. Add fruit and vegetable scraps each week. Add a small amount of food in the first week and over 6 months gradually increase the amount. A worm farm with a surface area of one metre square and around 10,000 worms will eat about 10 kg of food waste each week. Worms will breed and grow in direct proportion to the feed provided and the size of the worm farm. It is best to feed your worms weekly. If uneaten food remains, then you know you have overfed the worms.
7. After feeding the worms, cover the food scraps with some compost or soil to avoid attracting vinegar flies.
8. Add water every few days or when necessary to prevent the worm farm from drying out. More water may need to be added on hot, windy days. It is important to keep the worm farm moist, as the worms may die if it dries out. However, the worm farm should not be soggy either. Remember, there is moisture in the food scraps.

After 6 months, it may be necessary to start another worm farm, either by starting the whole process in another container, or, if using a box with holes in the bottom, by placing the second box on top of the first and only putting food scraps in the top box. The worms will migrate through the holes to the top box to feed.

To collect the worms from an established worm farm, remove the castings and place on a piece of shade cloth held over a tray. The worms will migrate through the cloth onto the tray below.

The worm castings can be used in the garden in the same way as compost or mixed with commercial potting mixes to pot plants. However, do not remove all of the castings as the worms need a good bedding mix for breeding.

What to Feed the Worms

Worms will eat almost any type of vegetable and fruit scraps, coffee grindings, paper, leaves and even damp cardboard. Do not add onions or too much acidic food like oranges, mandarins or pineapples. Avoid materials contaminated with toxic chemicals, for example, sawdust from treated wood. Chop up food before adding and try to feed the worms a mix of materials.

Worm Facts

• There are 350 species of earthworms in Australia and most of those found on farms and in gardens are introduced species. Compost worms are rare in the bush because the conditions are not suitable. Compost worms are a special type of earthworm. Compost worms are generally more active than normal earthworms. They thrive in the rich, moist and warm environment of a worm farm and can eat about half their body weight in one day.
  
• The population in a well maintained worm farm doubles every two to three months. Earthworms are hermaphrodites, which means each worm has female and male sex organs, so every worm can have babies. But reproduction can only occur between two mature worms of the same species.
  
• After mating, both earthworms form a capsule (or cocoon) containing up to 20 eggs. Even though each mature compost worm might mate every 7 to 10 days and produce about 4 to 20 capsules a week, only 3 of these capsules produce babies. Each capsule produces around 4 baby worms, which makes a total of 12 babies per adult per week.
  
• Babies hatch after about 30 days and are ready to breed 55 to 70 days later. Earthworm eggs can survive in very dry conditions for a long time. The babies usually hatch when the soil becomes moist.
  
• Although earthworms do not have eyes, they sense light as well as vibrations and temperature through special organs in their skin.
  
• You can also add compost worms to standard compost bins or heaps, as long as you do not let the contents of the bin get too hot.

Note

Using worm castings is like any other gardening activity, so wear your gardening gloves and wash hands thoroughly after handling materials.

The information on worm farms is varied. This page provides information on what is believed to be commonly accepted practice.

Taken from: http://www.sustainability.vic.gov.au/www/html/1656-how-to-build-a-worm-farm.asp

Ebook Mengenani Panduan Penternakan Cacing

Ini saya baru jumpa di internet, E-book Panduan Penternakan Cacing. Kepada sesiapa yang berminat, bolehlah melayari laman web ini.

http://jutawancacinglintah.multiply.com/journal/item/3